Saturday, 18 July 2015

Rainy Day along the River Sind














(Travelogue 2015 Part III )

 https://youtu.be/WPAiDh8KrkQ

5thJuly, 2015 early morning after bath and breakfast with our elder brother Girdhari Lal at Zainakot rented house in front of our houses in debris, we; I and my younger brother Ram Sarup executed the plan for trip to Sonamarg-Baltal, 100 kilometres away from Srinagar. We took to Shadipor-Ganderbal bypass road through cluster of villages like Vokuer, Nunaer,  Vasuer, Manigam etc.  Until eruption of militancy in 1990, these villages were inhabited by Kashmiri Pundits too. Great saints like Nandh Bub and Kasheakak were from Nunear and Manigam respectively.
Belly of ‘The House on Wheels’ was filled to its capacity at a petrol pump in the vicinity of Prang. At Kangan market, we made a little of shopping of grocery and bakery items including bread, packed pickles, edible oil, potatoes, onions, tomatoes etc. Far ahead of Prang around 1 PM, we declared the hour for lunch break. The sumptuous lunch consisted of two local breads with local packed pickles for each of us. It was enough to let us drive further for our destination.
To avail of the benefit of the stopover, we preferred to defuse the little pressure on our respective bladders. I asked people around if they could guide us to any public or private convenience point around. Being one of them for the last 76years and five months, I was little surprised when they directed me to any secluded site on the roadside as the most suitable place for urination.  Conscious of the recent advertisements on ‘Swatch-Bharat’, we made it doubly sure that none was around with a camera for any sting operation. I recalled the caution that was given to me by my 2006 born grandson Avigna Jalali a boy of 5 in the year 2011 at Dubai camp site when being a Kashmiri,  I behaved and availed of my perfect freedom of urination in the interior of a bushy deserted  area. I took his caution lightly. The next day my hair bristled when I read one of the news in the News paper that read: “One Taxi driver from Pakistan was apprehended while urinating among bushes away from the roadside. He was fined, imprisoned and bundled back to Pakistan with orders never to land in Dubai again”. Mid seventies, Pundit Zanardhan Wali-‘Baitoth’ from Badiyar Srinagar visited his son Dr. Autar Krishan Wali, a scientist of repute in Germany. One of the don’ts in the verbal instructions given to father by his German national son was that before he stepped out, he must ensure that he emptied his bladder at home. In case anybody in Germany sits by the roadside to ease, he finds an ambulance behind him on wait for him. He is taken to a nearby hospital and all sorts of tests are made on him to ascertain the reason for untimely nature’s call to him at an odd place.
‘Thank god, we in India or in any part of India enjoy freedom to pollute the atmosphere to any extent.’  Restrictions imposed by the J&K State Government on polythene are only on paper. In case of strictness, the Government is scared of the reaction by those who fight for freedom to pollute the peaceful atmosphere. The Government believes in let the sleeping dogs lie asleep.
In absence of any public convenience point from Lakhinpore, the entry point to J&K State right up to Baltal, Pahalgam or other tourist spots apprehensions of pollution to Syed Ali Shah Geelani, Mohammad Yasin Malik, Mirwaiz Dr. Omar Farooq, Shabir Shah and others in the present scenario are justified. I suggest they better to awaken the respective agencies to look for ways and means to ensure pollution free atmosphere around rather than to restrict the yatra.
Seeing male and female, old and young tourists helplessly sitting aside the road to ease is shame on the part of the State / Central Government/Directorate of Tourism, Ministry of Tourism, and respective Development Authorities including the Shri Amar Nath Ji Shrine Board.  Tourism is the backbone of the State economy. A big chunk of our population survives on tourism.  Entire tourist route, tourist spots, gardens and parks must be punctuated with hygienic toilet outlets. Until the requisite toilet points are constructed, our Chief Minister cum Minister for tourism while luring outsiders for visit to Kashmir must provide each tourist with as many diapers as the number of days he/she stays in Kashmir.

 Sonamarg Development Authority seems to be concerned with revenue collection with little concern for development. Not to speak for the requisite toilet points, there is no dustbin in and around the crowded area in front of the Fish Point Sonamarg or in the Rafting Area in front of the Fish Point. At Gagangir-Sonamarg, the hoarding in capital letters reads:
“WELCOME
Sonamarg Development Authority Welcomes You                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       At the Enchanting And Picturesque Valley of Sonamarg”
The Tourist believes the hoarding and alights from his vehicle. Soon he gets disgusted when he on spot finds:
 (1)Broken water pipes with flowing water without any vertical length fitted with tap to it.
(2) Guest house amidst the park with no water connection and electric supply when private houses and hotels around are electrified with proper electric and water connections.           
(3)  When in absence of any toilet point he/she has no option but to cross the footbridge meant for locals and eases across the river Sind in the forest area.   
Same in ditto is true for THE ISLAND RETREAT PARK, Sonamarg about three kilometres ahead of Gagangir Park. There is no toilet point, no water connection and no electric connection when a huge number of water pipes are piled up within the Park premises alongside an idle transformer. Expenditure on idle material is in fractious and invites audit objection.  
Sonamarg 85 km away from Srinagar is a nature’s marvel. By the sunset we reached Sonamarg. With thirst to look for more, we went to Baltal fifteen kms ahead of Sonamarg. It was disgusting to watch the neglected dusty area overcrowded with parked vehicles. The Police suspiciously directed all vehicles including those that had to return to pass through the parking slot. Though I sidelined the parking slot and did not cross the barrier, yet the keepers despite their argument failed to get a payment of forty rupees as parking charges from me.
Comparing Dubai administration with J&K or Indian administration, it  is nothing short of comparing Parverdigar with Naidyar. Each park even those that have free entry in Dubai is provided with a classic public convenience enclosure with liquid soap, tissue paper and electric blower. Unlike India, toll tax gets automatically debited to the account of the car owner and likewise for any traffic violation, the owner of the car gets an instant SMS regarding the fine debited to his/her account. Indian administrators close their eyes to such type of foolproof system to let the pilferage continue on. Parliamentarians in India and MLAs of State Assemblies do go on tour to different countries but only to get tax free gifts for their near and dear ones. Mrs. Prathiba Patil the then President of India obliged her far and near relations with a tour abroad before she relinquished her office. ‘Leajie ti chuer te gujie ti chuer’ ‘yehan durvaishee bi ayaree sultanee bi’
By dusk, our tent, with the help of Vishal Sharma a taxi driver from Jammu was pitched on the bank of the roaring branch of the River Sind.  The roaring musical sound of the river during the nights of 5th-6th and 6th-7th July 2015 lulled us to sound sleep. Get-together with strangers during the day was an additional bonus of the trip. 7th July after lunch, the camp was closed only to be opened at Gagangir, 9+3 km down the stream. At Gagangir, we sought help from three High School students headed by Irfan. The trio sought permission from Dilbar Mir, Chowkidar of the park and they carried the camp paraphernalia like our bedding, utensils, handigas, dining table, ration etc down to the camp site. Besides, they pitched the tent. 8th morning a new team of helpers arrived. They were fascinated with our adventure. They were three years younger to the previous group. Their team leader was Janhangir Chouhan assisted by Irfan Chouhan. Other members of the team were Shamim-1, Shamim II, Nazakat. Parvez and Mehraj-ul-din. They were all Chouhan living across the river Sind among the Deodar trees in dense forest. 7th-8th; 8th-9th nights at Gagangir Park and the day in the company of Chouhan boys are beyond description. Thrice a day, they shifted our kitchen paraphernalia to shady areas under shady tree and finally back to tent enclosure. Handigas filled in 2012, finally breathed its last on 9th July after it served us up to last and was to get packed. 9th July Chouhan boys lead me to their Gujar Bahaks in the forest. Their love for a stranger with no expectations was a new experience for me at 76 and a half.  9th afternoon we parted with a heavy heart. (To be concluded)


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